Anthony Giglio’s Tasting Notes from Cantina Canelli Week in New York City

Posted on: December 23rd, 2011 by ItalianMade
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By Anthony Giglio

It’s been quite an exciting month here in New York City for fans of Italian wines. From December 12-15, the Italian Trade Commission and Cantina di Canelli partnered in New York City to create a program showcasing the excellence of Piedmont wine that ventured beyond the better-known appellations and their accompanying big price tags.  My longtime mentor and wine guru Kevin Zraly and I had the pleasure to host events all over New York City for Cantina di Canelli’s unveiling of several of their wines before their imminent release here in the U.S. market.

This delicious preview was accompanied by pairings from an array of gastronomy hot spots throughout Manhattan, spanning the traditional to the innovative, and chefs from SD  26,  The  Leopard  at  des  Artistes,  Le  Cirque, Barbetta,  Serafina  and  Saint  Ambreous came together to create incredible dishes to match.

Prior to the events, Italian Trade Commissioner Aniello Musella stated that, “We are confident that trade and press alike will enjoy these wines, and we look forward to their reaction as they have this unique opportunity to preview a selection of wines from Cantina di Canelli prior to  their officialUSmarket entrance.” And indeed, these previews provided a fascinating look into the scope of Italian wines.

Introducing them to both the trade and press, Cantina di Canelli demonstrated four wine styles through Due Bollicine Pinot Chardonnay Vino Spumante Brut; Piemonte Chardonnay DOC; Albarelle Barbera d’Asti DOCG; and Bricco Sant’ Antonio Moscato d’Asti DOCG. I was thrilled to introduce these delicious wines, first at a luncheon at Serafina, and the next day at SD26 where I interviewed Cantina Canelli Export Manager Giorgio Musso. I was met by a room of engaged, discerning palates at SD 26, and got to talk with some brilliant bloggers about how best to serve each bottling.

Cantina di Canelli consists of over 200 growers, with vineyards owned by the members of the cooperative. Though this is a sizeable group, they’ve maintained amazing harmony between respect for tradition and interest in innovation for nearly 80 years. As Giorgio Musso of Cantina Canelli explained their philosophy: “It is unified and balanced approach that has enabled Cantina di Canelli to become an important player in the local economy, producing and exporting approximately 90% of the bottle wine produced.”

The reactions at both events, in general, was overall shock at how affordable the wines are, especially given Piedmont’s legendary reputation for three-digit prices. All of the wines offered by Cantina Canelli are under $20, even the overwhelming favorite, the Albarelle Barbera d’Asti DOCG (suggested retail $18). The Barbera showed so well, in my opinion, because each chef chose courses to either compliment the wines racy acidity (as at Serafina, where it was paired with paccheri al pomodoro – a juicy tomato sauce over pasta) as well as it’s medium-bodied tannins that could stand up to roasted venison at SD26. As one guest who grew up in Piedmont put it, “We call Barbera our red Pinot Grigio – meaning it’s always on the table, and it goes with everything.” I couldn’t agree more.