egetables have always held a prominent place in the Italian diet, primarily because of their color, flavor and texture. However, economic and climatic factors also heightened their appeal. In the past, meat and particularly beef played a relatively minor role in Italian nutrition. It was expensive and, in addition, relatively scarce because of a lack of pasturage during the long, hot and dry summer.
Cheese provided much of the protein requirement, while vegetables and cereals supplied essential carbohydrates and mineral salts. Favorable climatic conditions encouraged emphasis upon vegetables and the country’s extensive variety of soils assured production of an equally wide range of varieties.
The volcanic plains around Naples, Capua and Rome, the water-retaining clays of Tuscany and Umbria and the rich, alluvial soil of the valley of the Po and its tributaries have made enormous contributions to the Italian table for at least 2,000 years. Hills and mountains have also provided wholesome and delectable greens and vegetables since the days of primitive hunters and gatherers.
Lentils are one of humanity’s oldest food sources and those of Umbria and the Marches are famous. The caper is a rustic plant, native to the Mediterranean basin, and gourmets everywhere dote on those of the island of Pantelleria. Mushrooms (and truffles) flourish in woods and meadows of hills and mountains throughout the country. The boletus family is highly regarded and the mushrooms of Borgotaro, near Parma, are internationally appreciated.
The Greeks are said to have introduced the olive into southern Italy around 800 BCE. The fruit is valued for its oil but table olives are equally popular and some of the finest come from Apulia and Sicily. As a result of the discovery of the New World in the 15th century, a host of "new" plants joined the cornucopia of old varieties. That influx eventually yielded San Marzano tomatoes of the Naples zone (which contributed to the worldwide success of pizza), Senise bell peppers (grown in Basilicata) and beans (like the Lamon of the Veneto and the Sarconi of Basilicata) as well as zucchini, pumpkins and potatoes, among others.
Around the same time, growers in the Veneto developed special strains of chicory (Radicchio rosso and variegato). A special variety of shallot appeared in the Romagna in the early 20th century and proved to be highly appealing because of its delicate aroma and flavor. In serving vegetables, Italians tend to prefer the simplest preparations, for example, salads or brief boiling or steaming, basting with good olive oil, a sprinkling of salt and pepper and, possibly, an invigorating touch of garlic. The natural sensations are too good to mask with other flavors.
