he village of Colonnata, located in the heart of the Apuan Alps, is named after a colony of slaves that were brought to the area by Romansto work the marble quarries. Colonnata's lard, cured and aged in marble tubs carved from the same quarries, is a unique delicacy as old as the village itself.
Although it is difficult to establish with certainty whether the use of marble tubs was perfected by the Celts, the Romans or the Lombards, we do know that it is an ancient tradition. Indeed, historians have claimed that "the breeding of pigs and the renowned mastery in working their meat" is precisely what helped the village survive the Middle Ages, when operations at the marble quarries all but ceased.
The local lard curing tecnique, improved throughout the centuries, eventually became the village specialty. Several marble tubs dating back to the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries have been discovered at Colonnata. The village’s main church is named after Saint Bartholomew, the patron saint of butchers. And on that saint feast day, a lard festival is held that attracts connoisseurs from all over Italy and the world.
To this day, Colonnata lard is prepared only during the cooler months of the year, from September to May. The traditional curing method calls for the use of the freshest ingredients, without any artificial preservative or coloring. Within 72 hours of butchering, the pork lard is trimmed, rubbed with salt, and placed in thetraditional marble tubs In alternating layers with sea salt, ground black pepper, fresh rosemary and roughly minced garlic, called conca in the local dialect. The tubs, which also have been thoroughly rubbed with garlic, are then covered with marble lids.
Before it is put on the market, the lard is aged in for at least six months.
