Piedmont, Italy's westernmost region with borders on Switzerland and France, is
hemmed in by the Alps and the Apennines, which explain why its name means foot
of the mountain. Though it ranks only seventh among the regions in total
production, Piedmont is considered a giant of Italian wine in every other way.
Piedmont has the most DOC-DOCG zones with 50 and stands proud as the region with
the largest percentage of its wines officially classified. It has no IGT. For
craftsmanship, respect for tradition and devotion to native vines in their
historical habitats, the Piedmontese have no rivals in Italy.
The climate is rigid by Italian standards, with distinct changes of season.
Winters are cold with plenty of snow. Summers are for the most part hot and dry.
Spring and fall are temperate to cool with fog normal at harvest time.
A majority of the region's vineyards are located in the Langhe and Monferrato
hills, which are connected to the Apennines in the southeast. But several wines
of significance are also grown along the foothills of the Alps to the north
between Lake Maggiore and Valle d'Aosta.
The focal point of premium production is the town of Alba on the Tanaro River. In
the nearby Langhe hills, Barolo ("king of wines and wine of kings") is produced
at the rate of about 6 million bottles a year and Barbaresco, which many experts
rate its equal, rarely reaches 2.5 million bottles. Both come from Nebbiolo,
which gives them the powerful structure that makes them capable of improving for
many years from such fine vintages as 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1990, 1989, 1985
and 1982.
The traditional Barolo and Barbaresco were admired almost as cult wines, though
often criticized as too elaborate for modern palates. But the combination of
favorable vintages and perfection of techniques among winemakers, many of them
young, seems to be changing the old-fashioned image. Barolo and Barbaresco have
retained their ample dimensions while becoming better balanced and more
approachable than before.
The Alba area is renowned for its smooth, supple Dolcetto under several
appellations, and
for first-rate Nebbiolo and white Arneis from the Roero hills. But the most
dramatic progress in the Alba and Asti areas has come with the ubiquitous
Barbera, which after ages of being considered rather common has rapidly taken on
aristocratic airs.
Certain aged Barberas have emerged to stand comparison with fine Nebbiolo reds.
Piedmontese drink more red wine than white, and about half of the red is Barbera,
which can also be attractive in youthfully fruity and bubbly versions. Three
other red wines that have recovered after decades of decline are the crimson
Grignolino, the often fizzy Freisa and the buoyantly sweet and bubbly Brachetto
from Acqui.
In the other major area of Nebbiolo production, the hills to the north, modern
styles are emerging in such reds as Carema, Lessona, Sizzano, Fara and the long
vaunted Gattinara, which along with neighboring Ghemme has been granted DOCG.
Piedmont is a leading producer of sparkling wines. Foremost among them is Asti,
the world's most popular sweet bubbly wine. The market for this fragrant white is
actually larger abroad than in Italy. In fact, worldwide demand is so great that
a shortage of Moscato di Canelli grapes has developed.
Piedmont is also a major producer of dry sparkling wines by both the classical and charmat methods, though
many of the Chardonnay and Pinot grapes used for them originate outside the
region, mainly in neighboring Oltrepò Pavese in Lombardy or in Trentino-Alto
Adige.
Among still whites, Gavi shows a crisp yet elegant style that explains why
admirers consider it one of the best with seafood and why it was recently
promoted to DOCG. Smoothly fruity Arneis continues to gain ground in Roero, where
the light, zesty Favorita is also emerging. Some predict a revival of the ancient
white Erbaluce di Caluso from near Turin.
Although Piedmontese growers were among the first to experiment with such foreign
varieties as Cabernet and the Pinots early in the19th century, those vines had
largely faded from favor. Just recently, though, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Bianco
and Nero and, especially, Chardonnay have shown promise. The regional Piemonte
DOC applies in part to sparkling wines from Chardonnay, Pinots and other
varieties. Still, as admirers have noted, even wines from international varieties
bear a stamp that is unmistakably Piedmontese.
