Lombardy boasts some highly favorable places for vines in a region where the Alpine climate is tempered by the lakes of Garda, Iseo, Como and Maggiore in the north, and the Apennines to the south.
The region’s most productive zone, Oltrepò Pavese is Italy's leading source of Pinot Nero grapes. In the past, growers let much of the supply slip away to Piedmontese and other bottlers of sparkling wine. But a growing quantity of bottle-fermented wine has been issued under the DOC of Oltrepò Pavese, sometimes labeled as Metodo Classico Classese.
Only a fraction of the wine produced annually in Oltrepò Pavese is sold as DOC. Yet some very good wines are made there, not only Pinots but robust Barbera, Bonarda and Oltrepò Pavese Rosso, plus fruity white Rieslings and Moscatos. Local sparkling wines are also made by tank methods of fermentation.
The Valtellina is highly respected abroad, and not only in Switzerland. DOCG has been granted to Valtellina Superiore and its four subdistricts: Grumello, Inferno, Sassella and Valgella. Those wines have gained favor in Italy and abroad, along with a bit of the rich and mellow Sfursat or Sforzato, which is included in the Valtellina DOC. The Superiore reds of Valtellina are among the most austere of Nebbiolos, due to the coolness of the terraced mountain vineyards, so steep in places that grapes are hauled in with baskets on cables. But the apparent lightness is deceptive, for some have the strength and stamina to improve for well over a decade.
Good wines are made in the provinces of Bergamo, Mantova and even Milano, but the prize for quality and variety goes to Brescia, which boasts a majority of the region’s DOC/DOCGs: Botticino, Capriano del Colle, Cellatica, Franciacorta, Terre di Franciacorta, Garda Bresciano, San Martino della Battaglia and two zones that share territory with Veneto: Garda and Lugana. Under Garda DOC are four wines from the Garda Classico area in the province of Brescia. The white Lugana, which compares with Soave Classico in class, has been growing in stature.
Lombardy’s most admired wines of the moment are from Franciacorta. Terre di Franciacorta DOC applies to a sturdy red from Cabernet, Barbera and Nebbiolo, as well as to white wines from Pinot Bianco and Chardonnay. But Franciacorta’s reputation has been built on the outstanding bottle-fermented sparkling wines fashioned by estates. Nearly a third of Italy’s bottle-fermented sparkling wine is produced in the Brescia area, but only wines from select vineyards in the zone qualify as Franciacorta DOCG.
