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Bramaterra (DOC)

t is an extremely rare wine, produced solely in several communes surrounding Villa del Bosco in the province of Vercelli. The production area is known locally as "Bramaterra.'' The wine is the result of a highly successful combination of Nebbiolo--the nature of its soil makes the zone a natural habitat for the variety--and two other types that are now characteristic growths of the area's hills. They are Bonarda Novarese and Vespolina, which are complementary to Nebbiolo. Bramaterra is produced by growers who have inherited their dedication to the vine from their ancestors and have become past masters in the art. It was precisely one of those small producers who has become a figure of local, popular legend. That character, an old man who was small and irritable, made the best wine of the zone, by the general admission of his colleagues. But he refused to sell his exceptional wine and would not share its goodness with just anyone. The result of his obsession was a ruddy complexion and features marked by an expression of satisfaction, both of which lasted virtually the whole year, or as long as his wine held up. But the features of his fellow producers were hard and green with envy. Great sacrifices have been made by those who produce Bramaterra. Because of the fairly limited area suited to the cultivation of vines, output is relatively low, which is unfortunate since Bramaterra is a formidable wine that is tasty, velvety and pleasantly bitterish.

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